Celebrating the leftovers of Kenya’s old architecture

These are not iron sheet-roofed skyscrapers that clutter Nairobi city, neither are there stone-built mansions.

The traditional technology and artistry used has been there for years, but as metropolitan invasion catches up with the resilient Loiyangalani village in Turkana, all this beautiful architectural genius might soon be wiped out.

The Turkana cultural festivals are perhaps the few occasions that provides the opportunity to celebrate the architecture on the move—designed to cater for nomads in an environment that remains hot throughout the year, with little vegetation, shade and water.

After harsh hours on the sandy terrains and rays of sun hitting through the deserted plains and hills, some feel-good breeze welcomes you to Loiyangalani.

This is the place of many trees in the desert— named after the local Samburu language—and indeed an oasis surrounded by a sea of sand and hot air.The journey through the stretches from Nairobi to Loiyangalani takes at least two days on the road and almost two hours of flying for those who take the option of a chartered plane.

At the dry Loiyangalani airstrip, we are met by what looks like the whole village. Clad in resplendent ochred regalia, its action and action here.

They are here to usher a group of enthusiastic tourists on a mission to savour the natural flavours of the traditional life existing side-by-side with new trends.

This is at the recent second edition of the Turkana cultural festival, two days of spontaneous cultural action that easily transform the village—in terms of cash flow, the number of people in the village; even activities on the menu.

Since last year, when the German embassy organised the inaugural Turkana festival, the rural village market hosting different communities around the Lake Turkana gathers to showcase their community’s treasures— architecture, authentic fashion, invaluable indigenous knowledge that the communities have survived on; music, dance and other performing and visual arts.

Just like its name suggests, the area offers an oasis of opportunities—especially for visitors interested in cultures of these communities.

There is some water too—even some hot water spring, which is a contrast to the rest of the surrounding area.

Besides dances and music, the festival also feted traditional architecture from the area.

The traditional architecture— featured in the Turkana festival and the actual ones where the community lives—symbolise the nomadic lifestyle of the communities—Pokots, Samburus, Turkana, Elmolos and even Gabbra— who are stakeholders of the Loiyangalani community.

They are deceptively similar in shape and looks, but each has its unique defining characteristic which ignorant eyes may easily dismiss. We spent the first night in a Samburu hut.

With the city skyscrapers; mansions and villas in mind, you might be reluctant to spend a night in the small huts. But not until you step inside and experience the soft strokes of the wafting breeze that defy the hot air outside.