Sites and vistas that make a visit to Turkana memorable

If you want to head to the Turkana region - be prepared.

This is pure desert country —hot, parched and broken by volcanic activity, where ancient blackened lava flows and endless thorn trees stretch from horizon to horizon.

Getting there overland is no mean feat.

While it is possible to fly to Turkana in a Chartered aircraft (and indeed flying is recommended for the furthest Northern reaches), I must point out that flying to Turkana is somewhat distils the adventure.

This is a place where the journey is very much part of the destination—and it is only by taking the long difficult road that a real sense of remoteness is gained.

However, the flight itself is quite an experience, taking in wonderful vistas across the Suguta Valley and providing a birds eye view of Lake Turkana.

Most visitors make the long trip from Nairobi over a two or three-day period, stopping en route at Maralal, Samburu, or Marsabit.

The trip winds through some beautiful country, and travellers invariably encounter Rendille camel trains, and pass by tiny villages and nomadic encampments along the way.

The history and cultures of the North- the Samburu, Pokot, Gabbra, Borana and many more are written upon the soil of this trackless land—and travelling through this area is an invaluable learning experience.

Both the East and West shores of Lake Turkana offer unique areas of interest.

At the South East tip of the Lake, reached via South Horr, the tiny oasis of Loiyangalani (“the place of the trees”) attracts many travellers to its palm groves, where a constant wind offers relief from the searing heat.

There is a well-maintained campsite and basic lodge here.

Many safari companies and operators offer truck trips to this area—sometimes combined with a Camel safari further south.

Loiyangalani is a good base for exploring—either by boat to South Island National Park, or by climbing nearby Mount Kulal—a challenging climb which needs to be undertaken with care.

El Molo Bay is home to Kenya’s smallest tribe, the El Molo whose numbers have dwindled through intermarriage and linguistic and cultural absorption with the Turkana and Samburu communities.

One of the last true hunter-gatherer communities, the El Molo are centered on this small bay, which is also a good place to spot crocodiles and birdlife.

Outside influence has been slow to reach this distant frontier, and the El Molo, Turkana and other communities along the Lakeshores still live lives dictated by tradition, myth and custom.

In many places here, life continues unchanged as it has for centuries.

For the more adventurous, the long road North leads to Sibiloi, a 1600 square km National Park recently accorded World Heritage Status.

This park is a real surprise after a long desert journey—there is plenty of open green, grassland—and plenty of game.

Zebra, Topi, Giraffe, Ostrich, Hippo and the occasional Lion and Cheetah have all been sighted in the park.

Sibiloi also incorporates Koobi Fora a very important site for Hominid Fossils, famous internationally since Richard Leakey’s discovery of ‘1470’ a 2 million year old skull of Homo Habilis.

As interest in visiting this area increases, there is promise of improved visitor facilities and safari options.

Western Turkana is more accessible, via the road North from Kitale to Lodwar and onward to Ferguson’s Gulf and the village of Kalokol.

There is a basic lodge here—originally a fishing lodge for those looking to catch prized Nile Perch.

About 60 km further North is beautiful Eliye Springs, home to spring fed oases, large crocodile populations, and many small Turkana villages.

There are a few simple lodgings available here.

Just a little further North, the all new Lobolo Camp treads the fine line between roughing it and the more comfortable “easy” tented camps in Kenya’s more accessible Parks and Reserves.

The first permanent tented camp in Turkana, Lobolo is nestled among 100 acres of lush forest, watered by a series of fresh water springs.

The camp is owned and managed by Dutchman Halewj in and his Kenyan wife Joyce, who have been running safaris into this region for more than a decade—and have developed a zealous passion for providing efficiency and service in this remote area.

The camp has six spacious, spotless tents with spring water showers and specially raised beds to take advantage of cool breezes, and provide views of the sunset over the Lake.

A central mess tent serves up remarkably first class meals, with flame grilled brochettes, fresh salad, and excellent local Nile Perch.

With excellent boats and guided trips around the Lake, specialised fishing trips for Nile Perch and many others are possible.

Lobolo caters for those who still want to enjoy the adventure of travelling to this wild frontier, but still appreciate the value of a comfortable bed, a cool shower in the evening, and the occasional unexpected luxury—such as delicious hot samosas with soy sauce served by the campfire.

Overnight fly camps on Central Island National Park can also be arranged.