Heritage

Challenges local fashion designers must overcome

models

Models pose in Wambui Mukenyi Fall-Winter 2014 collection. Photo/Courtesy.

The driving force or need to have a free hand in creating as opposed to being guided by a client, collections offer the Kenyan fashion designer an escape route. And when inspiration hits, it is difficult to disobey.

“Creating a new collection is no small feat. It’s an extremely involving process which goes through a number of iterations. Ideally, a collection is supposed to tell a story, embody the best of your creativity and sharply define your aesthetics as a designer,” says Ziki O, head designer at AfroFanatic.

“It is supposed to be evidence of your ability to create as well as execute to near perfection what you have conceived.”

It takes her between three and six months to come up with a collection.

Ziki’s most difficult part is putting ideas down on paper and getting everything to fit into one cohesive block in terms of design, fabric selection and colour schemes, among others.

She draws her inspiration from street styles, the way some people put their outfits together, not only “blows” her mind but also sends her on a creative trip.

“A lot of serious editing is required during this stage and many designs don’t make it from the sketchpad to the sewing machine,” she says. “The whole process is extremely painful and extremely rewarding and anyone in the creative arts can relate to.”

However, if coming up with a collection is both painful and rewarding, but why do it, especially when it is mostly assumed that local customers prefer custom-made outfits to buying from collections?

“Kenyans are into fashion. It is inaccurate to make a blanket statement that they are not into collections. I have received a positive response to my previous collections,” says Charity Kiarie, head designer at Boutique Mahali.

Her collections feature original designs, tailored to perfection on limited editions — four to six pieces per style.

She does not market her collections to be bought all at once, rather Boutique Mahali provides pieces that are not only versatile as stand-alones but are also excellent when worn together.

Coming up with collections, she explains, is to demonstrate the style of a brand, craftsmanship and artistic bend, among other things.

Wambui Mukenyi, who just released her first collection of the year — The Wambui Mukenyi Fall 2014 — concurs:

“I think Kenyans have started appreciating the effort designers put in making a collection, because they buy, that’s the one reason that I keep going,” she says.

“I usually do not have any limitations when coming up with a collection, since I work within my clients’ expectations and also in consideration of who my customers are and what they would most likely want in their closet.”

Her collection based on black and white theme was inspired by the local street style, among other things.

The biggest limitation in conceptualising, drawing and production, Kiarie says, is picking the right size for different African figures, especially for women who do not fit comfortably in the US, UK and European standards. This makes mass production of ready-to-wear outfits almost impossible.

“The next issue is financial resources. Creating a collection takes a lot of cash — making exquisite samples, professional photo shoots, marketing and creating an inventory,” she says.

“Without a guarantee of sales, one risks tying up considerable financial resources in a slow-moving collection.

“This limitation may end up dictating the frequency with which one puts out collections. One more (challenge) is the designing element. It is intense.”

Kiarie says that producing about 20 pieces which follow in steps of a previous collection, flow well and are original in style while remaining true to the brand is a demanding process.

“It is a delicate balancing act, but the payoff, when a collection is well received and clients are excited to wear it, makes the entire process worthwhile,” she observes.

Kiarie has discovered the secondary purpose of collections. Apart from the clients who prefer to buy a ready-made item as opposed to placing an order for a custom-made garment, it gives a brand an opportunity to show off its image, and its designers to demonstrate their artistic flair.

“A new collection is basically supposed to embody the creative direction or thinking that a fashion house is currently undergoing.

“It is also supposed to showcase how each one is interpreting the latest trends in the industry and incorporating these into the clothing men and women will wear all season long,” says Ziki.

“It is also an opportunity to remain fresh and updated continuously responding to the mercurial whims of the fast-paced fashion industry.”