Makindu temple where you can reflect on the spiritual side of life

Sikhism (from Sikh meaning “disciple” or “learner”) is a monotheistic religion originated in the Punjab region of the Indian subcontinent during the 15th century.

Sikh migration from India began in earnest during the second half of the nineteenth century when the British completed their annexation of Punjab.

The British Raj (“Rule”in Punjabi) recruited Sikhs for the Indian civil service (in particular, the British Indian Army) which led to Sikh migration throughout India and the British Empire. During the Raj, semi-skilled Sikh artisans were transported from Punjab to British East Africa to help build the railway.

In a souvenir booklet commemorating the 494th birthday of the founder of the Sikh faith, Guru Nanak, a section is dedicated to the arrival of the first Sikhs in what is Kenya today.

“Men were packed in the ship like sardines in a can. They were crossing a vast ocean. Amidst this group of men was a small party of Sikhs who had come on board, led by one who reverently carried on his head, a small cot on which sat what looked like a big book, richly draped. Another man ceremoniously waved over it, a large and ornate fan.

The Sikhs were carrying their Holy Book; the ever-present embodiment of their faith, with them. On the overcrowded decks travellers willingly created an honourable place for it. While there was shouting and pushing all over the ship, there was a quiet, deep air of veneration for this Holy Book; the Guru Granth Sahib.

This was the first group of indentured labour that was brought over from India in 1892 to build the Uganda Railway, as it was then known. They were men of skill; carpenters, blacksmiths and masons. Within weeks of landing in Mombasa, at Kilindini, they erected the first Sikh Gurudwara (“House of worship”) in Africa, made of timber and iron sheets donated by the railway authorities. In it, they placed the Guru Granth Sahib and regularly worshiped there.

As construction of the railway progressed inland the first major stop was at Voi then Makindu or Mile 100 in railway parlance. Makindu means “the place of palms” in the local Kamba dialect. It was a place of many fresh water springs and tall palm trees providing a convenient stopover for changing of the guard and taking on woodfuel and water for the thirsty steam locomotives.
Although the Sikhs were men of vision and an iron will, many of them got lost in the tropical wilderness or fell foul of the man-eating lions of Tsavo. Makindu provided a place of shelter and solace. The early Sikhs would gather under a tree near the railway station every weekend and offer thanks and prayers to Waheguru (creator of all). By the 1920’s there was a small but vibrant Indian community manning the railway station and workshop at Makindu.

The British gave the Sikhs a piece of land near the railway station where they built a temple of iron sheets in 1926. The Guru Granth Sahib was moved here from Kilindini and Makindu became a popular stop for travellers wishing to pay their respects to Waheguru and as a rest house with kitchen facilities.

Unfortunately, between 1929 and 1938, the railway administration imported larger and more powerful Beyer Garrat locomotives with increased fuel and water capacities which could haul huge loads over longer distances than their predecessors, obviating the need for a stopover at Makindu.

With time the workshop was closed and the Sikhs living at Makindu had no option but to leave, closing the Gurudwala and leaving it under the care of a Kamba caretaker called “Gwalo”. A window was, however, left open so that travellers could pay their respects to Sri Guru Granath Sahib through the opening.

A fire broke out in the late 1940’s destroying the main temple but leaving the Sri Guru Granath Sahib intact.

Some time in the late 1960’s Gwalo apparently had a vision of the last guru, Guru Gobind Singh. This created renewed interest in the Gurudwala at Makindu and in the early 1970’s a new prayer hall was built and again the kitchen that was so central to Sikhism was re-opened. It was then when the master craftsman Hari Singh Bansal was commissioned to build the grand gateway to the temple.

Set in a forested area at Makindu, some 170kms from Nairobi, on the Nairobi-Mombasa Road, the revamped Sikh Temple complex is a convenient rest stop for weary travellers on this busy road, to relax and meditate. Here anyone of any religion or no religion can withdraw from the mundane and reflect on the spiritual.

The gateway is an architectural masterpiece built to an Arabic style, it features stone walls smooth rendered and painted a brilliant white externally with an onartely finished arched entranceway.

The roof comprises several embellished domes beautifully filigreed in gold. Floors are finished in a mixture of marble, terazzo and granite while doors are made of hand-carved timber set in embellished frames. Windows are glazed in sliding aluminium casements.

The main Temple is of similar construction offering a serene environment for prayer and meditation. The Gurudwara is set to the western side and features a clay-tiled roof.

Standing in the middle of the complex is a large dining hall with an attached kitchen which provides travellers with free “langar” (meals) around the clock as determined by the founder Guru Nanak Dev.

I had the pleasure of sampling their lunch offering during my visit and I was most impressed by their hospitality and the quality of food.

The complex also provides living accommodation for travellers which feature comfortable beds with ensuite facilities. I understand they can accommodate up to 30 visitors at any one time for a period of two nights.

These facilities are offered free of charge for travellers but people often make donations in appreciation. The complex is well managed by a full-time caretaker with a complement of support staff. It is clean and well maintained.

The Sikh community has also put up a hospital across the road from here to serve the local people. The hospital charges Sh50 for any treatment.

There are also plans to build a trauma centre to help accident victims. What a wonderful example of selfless service to the world by a community who came here not under the best of circumstances.

The writer is a retired banker and motorcycling enthusiast; [email protected]