Sociologists examining lunch time behaviour in Nairobi, between 12 p.m and 2 p.m, would find a stratified society where some “go” for lunch in assorted establishments while others have “hotels” take lunch to them.
The stratification was vividly, but inadvertently, brought out when Central Organisation of Trade Unions secretary-general Francis Atwoli and Public Health minister Anyang’ Nyong’o debated on contribution to health insurance. Atwoli complained that Sh 2,000 was a lot of money for workers to pay, but Nyong’o retorted that he spends that much for lunch in hotels.
The Atwoli-Nyong’o exchange touched on the class structure of people in Kenya that can be gleaned at through the prism of lunch time Nairobi. There are at least six categories.
First, there are those who “go” for lunch and each easily spend more than Sh2,000 in exclusive hotels. These include executives, foreign expatriates and diplomats, and participants in sponsored conferences or institutional functions.
Second, some go to fast food outlets that do not have much eating ceremonies. In high class fast food outlets, the elite spend Sh400 to Sh1,000 on chicken, chips, soda, or pizza without blinking. Not too far are crowded outlets where prices are about 1/3 of what the elite pay. Chips, “mandazi,” and soda costing between Sh20 and Sh70 are the most popular.
Third, are those who “go” for “choma.” The elite often drive to nyama choma places, pick the meat to be roasted, fried, or boiled and pay Sh600 to Sh1000. They wait for 30 minutes while taking drinks and discussing matters. The regulars go to kiosks which are popular with low ranking employees. Everything is ready and there is no waiting. Customers quickly receive their orders and part with Sh 100- Sh150.
Fourth, are those who go to “mwananchi hotels” where prices are around Sh100-Sh250. Food is ready and hotels do brisk business.
Fifth are mobile “hotels” that “go” to potential customers near factories and at construction sites. This is not the pre-ordered “outside catering” services offered by big hotels in exclusive venues at exorbitant prices. It involves mobile “hotels”, often entrepreneurial women, who find out where potential customers are and, without being instructed, take food to customers at lunch time. The food comprising githeri, ugali, chapati, pilau, kuku, and uji is easy to cook at home, package in ciondo, and carry to the construction sites. With Sh20 to Sh70 , customers eat “githeri”, drink porridge and return to work. The “hotel” then returns home.
Sixth are those who “go” for lunch in parks. They often “relax” in such public parks as Uhuru and Jeevanjee. They sit on benches or sleep on the grass and provide free audience to assorted activists. Such activists include street entertainers, various political and civic “educators,” and Bible thumping “preachers” in search of congregations.
Lunch time behaviour in Nairobi, therefore, is indicative of Kenya’s class structure. At the top, lunch is ceremonious and cost is irrelevant. The middle has a wide well catered for margin while the bottom makes do with mandazi, githeri and uji or nothing at all.
Prof Macharia teaches at USIU-Nairobi.
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