Meet Sarova’s sizzling Singh

The biggest and most epic battles in the hospitality industry seem to be going down in the numerous kitchens all over Nairobi.

Restaurants are hiring better (and celebrated) chefs. Hotels are launching bigger culinary operations. Cutting-edge interior decors. Revamped menus. Hell, chefs are even sporting better haircuts now.

Shailender, or Shealley, the General heading the Sarova army of chefs who had a great 8-year-streak as the caterers for former president Kibaki, and also made some celebrated coups in the culinary space, now realise they need to adjust their sails.

They recently launched a new menu at the Flame Tree Restaurant, which Shealley describes as a “deluxe gourmet presented in a cafe style.”

We met at the Flame Tree terrace. Shealley who admits that he’s “a slave to his tongue” is boisterous and fun. He also happens to have an excellent taste in ties.

---------------------------------------------

If society was blind to vanity and mute to humility, what would you say about yourself?

That I launched Thai Chai which has won close to 12 international awards. That as a highly accomplished chef, I have served numerous celebrities and heads of state, including Bill Clinton, Tony Blair, Colin Powell, Chancellor Shroeder, Premier Zhu Rong Gi, Bill Gates, Sir Richard Branson, Sir Elton John, Brian Adams and Roger Waters, among others. Not to mention former President Mwai Kibaki.

That I have written chef’s columns and hosted culinary TV shows. I also introduced several innovative concepts in the Kenyan market such as large-scale fine dining for events, contemporary dining at game lodges.... I had better stop. (Laughs)

Would I be wrong to say that you are the only chef in the country who wears a turban?

Oh no, I think the only other Singh chef is Avraj Singh of Panafric.

How many of these turbans do you own anyway?
(Amused) Probably about 25?

What, do you match them with your ties?

I normally do. (Laughs loudly) I never decide beforehand what I will wear, it all depends on my mood. Like today was a cold, dull day and I felt that wearing a red turban would cheer me up a bit. Yesterday I wore yellow, the day before blue.

Of course when you are in a suit, you want to go easy on the colours. But in a chef’s uniform, I will wear any colour. For me, a turban is a mood, fun thing. Once I tie it, I don’t even remember I have it on. (Laughs)

How do people react to your turban?

I think sometimes it gets me cornered or noticed. It represents my personality. I’m colourful, I’m easy, I’m okay with people from northern India, I’m a fun loving guy and I love my life.

I’m currently reading this excellent book called Kitchen Confidential by Anthony...

[Interrupting]... Bourdain! I have read all about him! Great book, right? Whatever he has written in that book I have done them in my own way. Lots of things. (Laughs)

Very quirky and some wild things in that book...

That’s what chefs are mostly about. When we are in our element, we want to manage the pressure that comes with the kitchen. You are constantly on the stage as a chef, you are a theatre actor. Your performance is judged instantaneously, everyday.

What’s your eccentrism as a chef?

[Pause] Quite a few things. I always plan 200 per cent, I’m very hyper. I will not rest until the job is done. I’m always thinking of things that need to be done better. I have had my time throwing pans and abusing people in the kitchen, but those days are gone now. (Laughs) I love to drive cars, eat well, dress well, I’m a loud personality!

Does all this reflect in your food?

It does. Many a times!

Is that a good thing?

I think it is. I think it preserves your identity, keeps your food special. Makes your work unique. You know, I got the Lifetime Achievement award with Go Places for mentoring the youth, so this enthusiasm has to rub off.

You are very boisterous, what do you fear the most?

Wow. [Pause] When I’m in the kitchen, I always fear something might run out, or maybe a guest not liking my meal. But that fear kicks you in the butt by preparing you to move forward. Fear is positive for me.

Most common criticism you get as a chef?

Very touchy about my food. I’m very defensive about my food.

Is this a good thing?

It’s good and bad.

Who is the one chef you respect in this industry?

Well, in the Kenyan market? Wow, that’s a tough one. I don’t know that many chefs here but Eamon Mullan, that old guy from Fairview Hotel, his basics were so strong and his food had character but he is off the radar these days. All chefs are pretty good actually. I have enjoyed my food at the Capital Club, in Pango... so there are guys doing some very good stuff.

If a man finds himself in a doghouse and he wants to placate his woman, where would this guy take the woman?

[Laughs] Oh, he should come to us! You know, as chefs we go through it all the time. We are always shying away from family and social commitment because of being so engrossed in our work. So you know how best to pacify the other half. So he should come here, we will put love back in that meal.

But away from us, hmmm. [Pause] Try the Fairview, Furusato or Talisman.

Kids?

Yes, two daughters, 14 and eight years. Both love their food, both love eating out. Older one is already baking and stuff. She comes from a household that has more cookbooks than anything else in the house.

You cook at home?

I do, but not very efficiently, I’m afraid. (Laughs)

What stirs you apart from food?

I love cars, in my own little way and with my limited means. I love travelling, meeting new friends, discovering new cultures. I love listening to music. I dabble in pottery, my wife is a studio potter. That might sustain me in my old age. I’m not very good at glazing but I’m good at going to the wheel and shaping the pots. Master potter Waithera Chege, been to her studio to learn and all. Very therapeutic.

What has influenced your life negatively?

(Thinks) Wow, negatively? I think it’s food. I’m a slave to my tongue, man. I know if I have a sore throat and I see a sour thing, I just would cheat and eat it even if a voice is telling me, “don’t do it, don’t do it.” My passion is also my Achilles heel.

When were you at your lowest in your life?

A few times. There was that bad, demanding boss, everybody left but I somehow stayed on and it sort of paid off. But, man, that boss was not nice at all. I have never found anything in my life that I hated. I never use the word hate.

Are you a good person?

Well... I think and know that I should be a good person and I try to be a good person. I have good habits and I don’t want to cause harm to people or animals.

One thing you love more than food?

Family.

You know, I have never seen a Singh dance before. Can you dance?

[Excited] Oooh, you have never seen a dance, man! That means you don’t know anything about dance! You put a Singh on a dance floor, he will dance in any situation.

I don’t know if you know anything about Singhs but we are boisterous people. We are farmers. We are saint soldiers, our last gods taught us to do good, sit with people and eat. We have to be the guardians of the oppressed and so when we celebrate life, we celebrate like there is no tomorrow, man.

The best Indian dance is the bhangra, that’s a Singh dance. We dance when we are happy, we dance when we are unhappy. I love to dance. (Laughs)