Laikipia: Travel gem that ranks among world’s best

Laikipia County is home to some of Kenya’s most luxurious properties as well as expanses of ranches and conservancies.

The county, dubbed “Kenya’s high country” in a book to showcase the conservation achievements of the area, made it for a second time on to the New York Times’s list of places to travel in 2017.

The 2017 list also included Botswana, Marrakesh in Morroco, Madagascar and Gabon as the go-to Africa destinations.
The plains of Laikipia are on the foothills of Mt Kenya, with lush exclusive resorts and ranches for elite local and foreign tourists who are in search of a place to wind down, including the exclusive Ol Jogi Ranch which is a 90,000-acre wildlife conservancy, one of many in the county.

In 2014, the county also made it to the list, making it one of the six African destinations selected that year.

According to the Laikipia County government, it receives over 86,000 visitors (tourists) annually and generates annual gross revenue of over Sh1.5 billion.

Most of the tourists are hosted in conservancy lodges. The county has four international standard classified hotels as per the latest ranking by the Tourism Regulation Authority.

They are Sweet Waters Tented Camp at Ol Pejeta, Sportsman Arms Hotel at Nanyuki, Thompson Falls Lodge at Nyahururu and Illingwesi Lodge at Illingwesi Community Ranch. This being in addition to the other 43 active tourism facilities and 1,230 beds.

“On average, the gross annual revenue per available bed in a lodge is about Sh1.7 million, Sh1.5 million in a resort and Sh739, 300 in a community lodge. Facilities operating in the low occupancy band generate about Sh400,800 gross annual revenue per available bed, those in the middle occupancy band generate Sh819,000 and those in the high occupancy band Sh2.5 million. The average length of stay at any single facility in Laikipia is one week.” says the county government.

KEY ATTRACTIONS

Ol Pejeta Conservancy

The conservancy houses some of the world’s most endangered animals. The 90,000 acre Ol Pejeta Conservancy is East Africa’s largest black rhino sanctuary, the closest reserve to Nairobi with the “Big 5” and holds some of the highest predator densities in Kenya.

The Sweetwaters Chimpanzee Sanctuary

Found in the Ol Pejeta Conservancy, the sanctuary is home to 38 chimpanzees. They are not native to Kenya, but when a rescue centre in Burundi had to be closed due to the civil war outbreak in 1993 , Ol Pejeta opened its doors.

The Sweetwaters Chimpanzee Sanctuary was established with an agreement between the Ol Pejeta Conservancy, the Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) and the Jane Goodall Institute.

Mount Kenya Wildlife Conservancy

Formed as a non-profit trust in 2004, the facility was created to care for abandoned, injured and rare endangered animals for rehabilitation back to the wild. The property offers visitors a close encounter with the magnificent rare Bongo antelopes, caracals and other charges.

Mukogodo Forest

Located in north eastern Laikipia, is the Mukogodo Forest Reserve — over 70,000 acres of natural indigenous forest with 170 identified vegetation species including podo, olive and cedar —clothed with lichen, ferns and orchids.  

The forest and its adjacent rangelands are a haven for birds, butterflies and wildlife. Famed for its hills and stunning viewpoints, take a couple of days to visit Mukogodo forest and enjoy spectacular 180 degree views over northern Kenya.

The Mukogodo Forest has boundless potential for walking, hiking and mountain biking, with various nature trail options suitable for family groups and energetic hikers.

Yaaku Cultural Museum

Adjacent to the Mukogodo forest within Kurikuri Group Ranch, this small facility has been set up to help promote the Mukogodo culture and revive the Yaaku language. It highlights the cultural journey that the Mukogodo people of this region have taken over the last century.

Other Attractions

Mt Kenya Game Park, beautiful Mt Kenya peaks’ view, unique Maasai culture, eco-tourism and conservancies.

Thomson Falls in Nyahururu, panorama view points at Kamwenje, expansive savanna landscape, game lodge and restaurants, hotels and camping sites.

Others are elephant corridors from Mt. Kenya to Marmanet forest for breeding and reproduction and Equator crossing points at Nanyuki, Oljogi conservancy (wildlife orphanage, rescue centre and tamed elephants).

WHERE TO STAY

Fairmont Mount Kenya

Fairmont Mount Kenya Safari Club Resort’s 120 appointed hotel rooms are set in over 100 acres of landscaped gardens with a view of Mount Kenya.

Originally the retreat of movie star and club founder, William Holden, the club’s former members have included Winston Churchill and American singer-actor Bing Crosby.

Ilingwesi Eco Lodge

Il Ngwesi Lodge offers six beautiful en-suite banda rooms sleeping a maximum of 17 with an extra staff bedroom if required. The rooms are open-sided to provide panoramic view.

Arijiju

The family home has a main house with three bedroom suites that share a courtyard garden. Outside the main dwelling, there are two very private, generous guest suite buildings with floor-to-ceiling glass doorways.
Sweetwaters Serena Camp

Located on the plains of Mount Kenya, the camp features 39 luxury tents, each with its own private veranda overlooking the water hole. The central Rhino Restaurant is housed in the former manager’s house of this once colonial farm and offers both regional and international cuisine.

Also within the house is the Kashoggi bar and lounge, which centres on a blazing log fire.

The Waterhole Bar, built in the style of a game-viewing hide, overlooks the waterhole and offers unrivalled wildlife-watching.

Mukima House

This is another enchanting colonial house with cedar framed windows overlooking Mt Kenya and is set on 360 acres of African bush. The house has eight bedrooms, five doubles and three twins that are all ensuite.
Amenities include a swimming pool, tennis and badminton court and a boating lake. One can also enjoy nature trails, horse riding and white water rafting. Mukima House is a four-hour drive from Nairobi and 15 minutes from Nanyuki town.

Laikipia Home

This is also a private home nestled in the foothills of Mount Kenya. It accommodates five guests in the three bedrooms, 10 minutes drive to Mount Kenya’s Sirimon route in Timau and 90 minutes from Samburu National Park. It is a perfect countryside retreat for walking, running or mountain-biking.

Ol Pejeta House

Located in the Mt Kenya Wildlife Estate, adjoining Ol Pejeta Conservancy the house is tastefully furnished with a mix of furniture made from old sailing dhows and from local reclaimed cedar. Even the curtains and dishes are made locally. There are four bedrooms and five bathrooms that sleep a total of eight guests.

Pelikan House

This is a self-catering thatched upcountry cottage. It has an open plan living and dining room with a huge fireplace, and a separate equipped kitchen.

The bedrooms open onto the covered veranda and a wooden deck extends out towards the dam and extensive views. The grounds are maintained, with a lawn and colourful gardens, but the natural bush habitat surrounds it.

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