‘You look good’ signature woos men to grooming

Looking good is an industry. Not because of women, not because of men. It is for both.

Men are the new entrants — especially in Kenya — whose perception of beauty is changing and is helping in pushing the wheel of the industry.

Just as research is showing that advertising spend by cosmetics makers is growing, it is also not uncommon to spot men queuing to buy personal care products at shops in the streets on Nairobi.

“You look nice!” is a familiar signature in the streets, at the office, during dating outings, and even at family meetings. Also at church.

What with these compliments, beauty product manufacturers got free campaigns that is slowly bearing fruit as more men approve of ‘good grooming.’

And during special occasions like the Mothers’, Fathers’ and Valentine’s days, the budget for beauty products, unusually, goes up.

Market research firms say this is an emerging segment in Kenya, although it is still dominated by the upper-middle class who value perfumes and colognes as the macho feeling and image gets a new meaning.

“Men are appreciating grooming as compared to the past and this results from several reasons, among them the availability of information especially through travel and on the Internet,” says Mr Harry Njagi, the regional sales and marketing director at Oriflame, a Swedish beauty products maker with operations in Kenya.

Last month, Oriflame launched 24 fragrances and roll-on deodorants, six targeting men.

Mr Njagi says the products for males are gaining ground in Kenya and are “competing fairly” with those for women.

“‘Signature’ is a fragrance for men that is the most selling and is competing with the fastest selling products for women,” he says.

According to statistics from Synovate, a local research company, local companies spend millions of shillings in advertising spend for men’s cosmetics.

The year 2008 recorded the highest figures in ad spend, reaching Sh32 million; last year it hit Sh29.1 million.

This includes advertising spend for specific and merged brands.

“There is an increase in demand for male products, as the male grooming category grows. The competition among the male personal care brands is therefore increasing; hence the significant annual advertising spends,” says Mr Joe Otin, the media research and monitoring director at Synovate Pan-Africa.

Spending is bigger on after-shaves and facial products that carry the highest percentage of the total budget on advertising while new offerings cater for events attracting men.

Among the specific brands, in 2008 Nivea for Men Happy Fathers’ Day recorded Sh158,000 in advertising expenditure.

Although majority of the products target men and women, there is a notable increase in demand for both the mixed gender products and those for men.

Although across the world annual budgets for men’s cosmetics are huge and growing, Kenya’s case is turning the heads of manufacturers and marketers because the country has been lagging.

Says Mr Njagi: “In Uganda, for example, men have always been receptive to cosmetics. However, in most Kenyan societies, men have a conservative culture and being the main custodians of local culture, changing it has always been difficult.”

Globally, especially in the western world, companies manufacturing male cosmetics record huge returns on their investments because of growing demand.

Reports by groups researching the segment show that the annual budget for men’s cosmetics in the US is an average $4 billion.

Local companies are fast keeping pace with the expected increase in demand through crafting new products and selling strategies to reach the remotest corners of the market.

But even as more men respond to ‘good grooming’ and appreciate products hitherto known in the woman’s circle, marketers are headed for a challenge of a segment whose loyalty is difficult to sway.

While this, for now, may worry new-comers, it is going to be sweet news for operators already in the market, who will not need to worry about frequent innovations to grow the market share.

Roll-ons and lotions cost as low as Sh350 while fragrances, which occupy the top spot of the pricing list can go for as high as Sh6,000.

Among the most promising marketing strategies that cosmetics companies are investing in is direct sales through subscriptions.

Under the arrangement, sellers acquire the products at own expense from the supplier and take the products as personal investment.

The supplier allows a discounted price that ensures the distributor makes a profit on closing a sale that also attracts commissions.

Distributors have invested in reaching individual potential buyers, offering them a chance to discuss the benefits and field questions.

Other companies also distribute their products through wholesale shops and supermarkets, although this method cuts the link between the seller and the prospective customer.

According to Mr Njagi, the men’s market is still pristine because the bulk of buyers is found among the urban’s young middle-income earners.

There is “a vast uncovered area especially in the rural areas,” a situation Mr Njagi says, offers manufacturers and marketers some elbow room to keep at arm’s “unhealthy competition.”

Aggressive marketing

Market research firms anticipate a fast growth in the segment, especially in areas where there is already a firm foundation and consumers were ready for a richer menu.

Says Mr Otin of Synovate: “Globally, the advertising spend in personal care products is expected to grow because of the introduction of new line extensions, and the growth in male products specifically, which are being marketed more aggressively today.”

Cosmetics firms appear headed for a rosy future since the economy is just recovering from a downturn that affected spending, condemning luxury items to a lukewarm market as families focused on basic needs.