Travel

While Away the Sunset Along Mida Creek

mida

You can spend an afternoon at sea on a dhow. PHOTO | DOREEN WAINAINAH | NMG

I never looked at bougainvillea as romantic flower. Well, that was until I saw mini bouquets hanging off the top deck of a dhow during sunset.

The simple flower that can be found across the country on hedges in the midst of rays and shadows of the sun lowering on the axis transforms the pink and off-white petals to exotic flowers.

Moored on the beach, the dhow welcomes us to a sunset cruise down the creek, decorated in simple fashion with palm leaves and different coloured bougainvillea flowers, adding to the charm of the wooden contraption.

The dhows, also known as Jahazis, are traditional Arab sailing vessels used to ferry goods from Kenya’s coastal towns to the Arab nations. The vessels that dotted the Swahili ports including Lamu, Zanzibar and Dar es Salaam glide on the calm waters of the Mida Creek in Watamu, now used as dining vessels.

A small motorboat helps the dhow turn on the beautiful creek nestled in the mangrove forests that are synonymous with the Mida Creek.

This motorboat, says Melinda Rees, operations manager at Hemingways Collection, helps steer a dhow because it cannot make sharp turns and usually floats only in one direction.

Once settled on the top deck of the dhow which is open on the sides, the crew raise the anchor and the sail begins.

We set off into the water, the shore turning into a small spec at a distance. The dhow is steady and you feel as though you are not moving. For a person, like myself who gets edgy in choppy waters, it is surprisingly calm.

I am not a big fan of small boats floating in the ocean at the mercy of the waves, so the idea of spending an entire afternoon on a dhow eating sounded, not appetising.

From one spot, we watch the sun go down as the crew and chef on board prepare the tantalising treats.

The food, an assortment of meats and fish, with drinks help while away the time out at sea, as we literally soak in the scenery. This topped with fresh gelato from a local gelateria in Watamu mark a peaceful end to the day.

Mida Creek, an inlet surrounded by mangroves and palms, is home to many species of fish and turtle, and occasionally you will you see the flying fish and a turtle from the dhow ride.

However, if open waters do not rock your boat and you happen to be looking for spots to sit out the sunset, on the other end of the creek from where the dhow sits is the Crab Shack Dabaso.

At the edge of a boardwalk through the mangrove forest, it is hard to imagine that the space leads to a simple restaurant with crab samosas as the main delicacy.

Started by Dabaso Conservation Community, a part of the Mida Creek Conservation Community, headed by Kahindi Charo, the mature crabs are fattened and sold them to surrounding hotels as well prepared as delicacies in the restaurant.

The bamboo cages along the walkway are used as the fattening pods for the crabs.

The Crab Shack is set at the edge of the walkway, right where the mangroves open up into the creek. From the restaurant, you can see boats sailing down the creek and fishermen hard at work, and of course the breath-taking sunset.

The Crab Shack, at first impression does not seem like much, but even the basic fish and chips comes to life at the edge of the water.

I must admit, coconut rice has never tasted so good with the chef shyly saying it is the fresh coconut rather than canned coconut milk that builds the flavour.

The Crab Shack takes walk-in clients, however for larger groups, a prior reservation is needed. The menu includes deep-fried prawns, calamari rings, and an assortment of chips.

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