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Kenyan women craft luxury bags for global stage
Karl Lagerfeld Senior Art Director Johann Tangyong (left) and Director Global Brand Marketing Julia Langenhan pose for a photo holding a handbag designed by the company, during an interview at Don Bosco Boys Town in Karen, Nairobi on January 7, 2025.
Photo credit: Wilfred Nyangaresi | Nation Media Group
In the vibrant town of Gilgil, Nakuru County, a group of women gathers under the open sky, their hands moving deftly as they thread beads onto a charm emblazoned with the initials “KARL.”
This intricate charm, brimming with colour and precision, is destined to adorn a luxury tote bag that will grace the shelves of international fashion stores.
These women belong to the Ushindi Women’s Group, founded in 2008 after Kenya’s post-election violence. Today, they are part of social enterprise, Tujikuze, launched by the Ethical Fashion Initiative (EFI), a flagship programme of the International Trade Centre.
With support from the Italian Agency for Development Cooperation, these women are turning traditional craftsmanship into a lifeline.
“This work has given us dignity and independence,” one of the women shares, her eyes lighting up as she threads a bead. “We’ve learned skills like screen-printing, stitching, and beadwork, empowering us to earn a living while celebrating our culture.”
The global creative journey
The journey of the Karl Lagerfeld tote bag begins far from Gilgil, in the creative studios of Amsterdam.
Guided by Hun Kim, Creative Director of Karl Lagerfeld, and the brand’s sustainability ambassador, Amber Valletta, the team envisioned the perfect “It” bag—a stylish, functional tote reflecting the brand’s iconic black-and-white aesthetic, accented with a splash of red.
Karl Lagerfeld Senior Art Director Johann Tangyong during an interview at Don Bosco Boys Town in Karen on January 7, 2025.
Photo credit: Wilfred Nyangaresi | Nation Media Group
With sustainability at the heart of its philosophy, Karl Lagerfeld’s brand—established in 2018—focuses on caring for the planet, supporting communities, and collaborating with artisans who create meaningful, high-quality products.
Teaming up with EFI was a natural fit.
The tote’s African roots
The tote’s story weaves through Burkina Faso, one of Africa’s largest cotton producers. Here, artisans craft Faso Dan Fani, the nation’s signature handwoven fabric.
The EFI’s partner in Burkina Faso, CABES, works with organic farmers to transform locally grown cotton into textiles. After careful selection, the black-and-white fabric for the tote is shipped to Kenya, where the next chapter unfolds.
At the Export Processing Zone in Athi River, Machakos County, Artisan Fashion, a social enterprise and EFI partner, oversees the bag’s production. More than 30 artisans, 44 percent of whom are women, bring the design to life.
The process is meticulous. Due to the striped nature of the Faso Dan Fani fabric, artisans manually cut each pattern, ensuring the stripes align perfectly on the tote’s body, side panels, bindings, and handles.
With over 2,000 individual components—including 960 side panel strips and 640 handles—the process demands patience and precision.
“Each piece is a labour of love,” an Artisan Fashion technician explains. “We’ve improved our technical skills and craftsmanship while maintaining the highest standards for the global market.”
A sustainable masterpiece
Sustainability is woven into every detail of the tote bag. Its lining is 100 percent organic cotton, while the buttons are crafted from coconut shells.
Even the bag’s reinforcement is biodegradable and certified by the Global Recycled Standard (GRS), ensuring environmental and social compliance throughout the production chain.
The final touch? The beaded charm crafted by the women of the Ushindi group, a symbol of creativity and resilience.
Each bag is unique, featuring individual patchwork patterns that highlight its handmade artistry.
A handbag designed by Karl Lagerfeld, displayed at a workshop in Don Bosco Boys Town in Karen on January 7, 2025.
Photo credit: Wilfred Nyangaresi | Nation Media Group
Earlier this month, Karl Lagerfeld’s Brand Marketing Director, Julia Langenhan, and Senior Art Director, Johann Tangyong, visited Kenya to meet the artisans.
They toured the production facilities in Athi River and spent time with the women beaders in Gilgil, witnessing firsthand the dedication behind every tote.
“This collaboration is about more than a bag,” Julia reflects.
Karl Lagerfeld Director of Global Brand Marketing, Julia Langenhan during an interview at Don Bosco Boys Town in Karen on January 7, 2025.
Photo credit: Wilfred Nyangaresi | Nation Media Group
“It’s about shifting the global narrative on African fashion and craftsmanship. There’s so much untapped talent here, and as a global brand, it’s our responsibility to provide a platform for these artisans.”
While this marks Karl Lagerfeld’s first collaboration with East African artisans, it isn’t their first venture into Africa. In 2019, they partnered with Nigerian designer and semifinalist of the 2019 LVMH prize Kenneth Ize to create a collection using local fabric and beadwork.
A launch with purpose
The limited-edition tote bag—available in black-and-white—will officially launch on April 8, 2025, aligning with Earth Month. Each bag will be sold in flagship stores worldwide and on Karl Lagerfeld’s website.
With an initial order of 250 bags, this collection not only celebrates craftsmanship but also empowers the artisans behind its creation.
For the women of Gilgil, this project represents hope and opportunity. For the Karl Lagerfeld brand, it’s a step toward redefining luxury as a force for good. And for the world, it’s a reminder that sustainability and style can go hand in hand.
