Why Kenyan men are ditching stiff suits for smart comfort

The BDLife meets him dressed in a reversible cashmere jacket, polo T-shirt, tech-wool trousers and sneakers, all from Hugo Boss, an outfit that could easily be worn to a board meeting or business lunch.

“This is what modern dressing is all about. The attributes of the traditional suit have changed. Everything has moved into a new, modern, easy, flamboyant, casual style,” he says.

Today’s man is swapping double-breasted blazers for tech-wool jackets, silk ties for open collars and silk shirts and leather oxfords for sneakers.

Once upon a time, the Kenyan man wouldn’t dare show up to a meeting without a full suit, starched shirt and polished oxfords.

Today? He’s pairing a tech-wool blazer with sneakers and still commanding the room. Suits tailored rigidly, with shiny lapels and strict formality are no longer in high demand. The shirt worn under the suit is also different.

In the 1970s, the look was bold, with wide lapels, flared trousers, and form-fitting silhouettes. By the 1980s, men wanted to appear strong, so suits had padded shoulders, single-pleated trousers and boxy jackets that mirrored corporate ambition.

The 1990s saw the introduction of slimmer silhouettes and shorter jackets. Then came the 2000s, when comfort took centre stage, casual Fridays became the norm, and elegance leaned toward minimalism.

“Then came the pandemic. The business of suits disappeared overnight. Everyone moved into loungewear and jogging attire,” Mr Fazal says.

After the pandemic, rules changed.

“People wanted elegance, but not the kind that feels stiff. That’s how the suit found its new form,” he says.

Today's professionals pair denim trousers with polo T-shirts, layer tech-wool blazers over crewnecks and complete the outfit with sneakers. In Mr Fazal’s eyes, the modern suit is not dead, it’s just more human.

“This is what modern dressing is all about. You can look smart without feeling overdressed. The fabric has to flow with your life,” he says.

He notes that most of his clients now prefer neutral tones, such as ash grey, stone, camel and midnight blue, with fewer patterns and simpler textures.

“People have become more toned down in their choice of clothing. It’s about easy fabrics, neutral colours, and a sort of sophisticated elegance. The trending shades for 2025 are sable green, pearl white, light rust and ash grey. For formal looks, parliament blue and earthy tones remain popular,” he says, adding that the stiff, heavily structured suits of the past are now reserved for “very serious men who have to wear Neapolitan cuts”.

When it comes to fabric, cotton-linen, wool-silk and tech-wool blends now dominate the racks, chosen for their comfort, breathability and versatility. “These are the most in-demand fabrics right now because they’re comfortable, durable and sophisticated,” he says.

But the suit has not died. The Fazal family has been in the fashion business for over 75 years, and at their shop the art of the suit still carries an air of ceremony.

“We start with the fabric,” Fazal says. “Then we decide on the lining, the buttons and the other details. If you want a blue suit with a shocking yellow lining, why not? A made-to-measure suit is like wearing a second skin. Everything must be impeccable: the fabric, the cut, the finish.”

Although technology has made production faster and easier, Mr Fazal insists that craftsmanship remains paramount.

“We keep up with global fashion trends, but we never compromise on tailoring. That’s what has kept us relevant for seven decades. There’s now a high demand for fabrics that don’t crease or stretch and move with you. That’s where technology in fabric design comes in,” explains Mr Fazal.

He points to Dressletic wool, a new textile that is as flexible as sportswear.

“You could jog in it,” he says, smiling. “That’s how far men’s suits has come.”

This shift toward accessibility and mood is less about intimidation and more about quiet confidence. “The Kenyan man doesn’t want to scream with his clothes anymore. He wants to express calm authority,” he says.

Younger people have also not ditched the suit. According to Mr Fazal, his youngest clients are in their 20s, entering the job market and young entrepreneurs keen to stand out.

“We’re seeing lots of young men who appreciate a well-made suit. Kenyan culture still values presentation. A suit still says, ‘I’m ready’,” he says.

However, they wear the suits differently. They are mixing formal and casual elements, wearing blazers with jeans, polo t-shirts instead of shirts, and swapping leather shoes for sneakers.

“Social media has played a huge role,” notes Mr Fazal. ‘When you look at red carpet events in Hollywood or Paris, you’ll see the same shift. Kenya is simply aligning with that global movement.”

So, is the traditional suit on its way out? Mr Fazal pauses. “We already have signs that the conventional suit is a thing of the past.”

“Soon we will have no suits. The jacket is being replaced by the overshirt. Trousers now have elastic waistbands and drawstrings. Polo t-shirts are replacing shirts, and ties are becoming obsolete. Sneakers are the new dress shoes. We’ve been in this business for 75 years and if there’s one thing we’ve learned, it’s that style never stands still,” he says.

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