Enchanting Lesotho: The Kingdom in the Sky grounded in traditions

There is no such sight here. Only one ‘oldie’ building with no discernable architectural ingenuity hosts all operations of this international airport that’s the only gateway to this small mountainous kingdom dubbed ‘The Kingdom in the Sky’.

To the natives, this abacus facility is good enough as it diligently serves its purpose to the population of 2.2 million Basotho people.

For an international airport, you would expect to see dozens of aircraft taking off and landing at intervals with hundreds of people rushing helter skaters from one point to another. All I remember seeing was the only aircraft that I had just disembarked from moments ago, an Embraer 100, and when that Brazilian-manufactured bird took off, the runway remained a jungle.

Don’t expect to find any latest ‘IT-amenity’ here like for instance the free Wi-Fi that is synonymous with most airports in the world these days. The waiting lounge is as simple as it can be, barely seating 10 people. There are no restaurants, Bureau De Change, duty-free shops, or any other such facilities that characterise most international airports.

The customs and border control has only two friendly duty desk personnel who speak beautifully with a heavy Basotho accent.

In 2024, everyone arriving at Mosheoshe I Airport - named after its founding King (1822-1870) – is required to manually fill out entry forms.

‘Kingdom in the Sky’

Yet beyond this archaic international airport, lies a country of dramatic landscapes, with soaring peaks, deep valleys, and cascading waterfalls. The further you go, the more mountains you encounter.

My trip here promised a blend of professional pride and personal adventure as I navigated the vibrant landscape.

A country completely landlocked by South Africa, The Kingdom of Lesotho (silent ‘h’) is a nation of blue skies, filled with mountains, natural trails, impressive horse trekking, seemingly infinite meadows, and the most scenic views you will ever see.

This was my first visit here and everything seemed to catch me by surprise, especially the scenery of the breathtaking views of alpine altitude that seemed to stretch endlessly.

Often called the ‘Kingdom in the sky’ due to its high elevation, this small rectangular state holds the title of the highest country in Africa as no part of it descends below 1,400 metres.

The Maluti Mountains which dominate the kingdom’s eastern border was yet another highlight with towering peaks rising over 3,000 metres.

But it was the popular Sani Mountain Pass, which connects Lesotho to South Africa, which stood out.

The rugged dirt road and a historic trading route dating back to the 19th century offered one of the most spectacular mountain pass scenery with its hairpin bends, steep inclines, and breathtaking views that stretch far and beyond.

For six hours, cut away from the rest of the world, I enjoyed the trip on the mountain pass from Underberg (a small town and starting point for tours) to the highland of the kingdom. A tiring overland but satisfying nonetheless.

Life in the Kingdom’s Capital

Maseru, the capital city of the Kingdom, where I stayed during this trip offered a refreshing charm; it's compact yet lively with a rhythm of its own.

Here there are nightclubs if you want to go wind up and a handful of fine dining restaurants that close at the latest midnight. It’s a small country so you don’t expect so many options.

The sooner you realise that the better.

The basic lunchtime menu including a drink in the business district will cost you 70 Loti or 70 South African rands. Lesotho uses both currencies as the strength is 1:1. A combo meal in a fast-food restaurant will have you part with 40-50 Loti. You will spend a similar amount if you opt for street food which in many cases will be slices of lean roasted meat and the native pap (ugali).

Foreigners living in Maseru are a cosmopolitan, sociable bunch and tend to stick together. You are more likely to meet them at the gym, shopping mall, wining and dining in the hotel/casinos, or perhaps over a game of golf, squash, or tennis.

Chinese are here too, constructing roads and skyscrapers. English is widely spoken here but it is useful to learn some of the local language, especially Sesotho.

Endemic poverty and unemployment among the local population in Maseru makes opportunistic crime fairly common, particularly pick-pocketing and petty theft.

Visitors are often targeted so it is wise to use common sense and take necessary precautions to safeguard your possessions. Avoid walking alone, especially in the city CBD.

The mode of public transport is taxis, little tiny cubs dubbed ‘4 +1’. The ‘4+1’ carry four people plus a driver, they fill in faster. They are timely and do not have fixed schedules; they navigate through traffic and settlements that sprawl out of town with ease.

Thaba Bosiu Cultural Village

Driving away from Maseru, reminded me of my days growing up in the village in the Kenyan-Tanzanian border. Away from the city, you come across local shepherds on horses and people living in huts, a common sight in many African villages.

However, in this Kingdom, many villages are tacked in the highlands that can only be reached by horseback or by foot given the mountainous topography of the country.