From the cockpit of the Cessna tearing through the cloudy morning sky on its way to the Maasai Mara, the Ol-Kiombo Airstrip looks like a bar of chocolate laid out on a bottle-green napkin.
There are no tarmac runways in the Mara and planes have to make do with the earth-red runways. On one side of the airstrip, near the one-storey control tower, a row of about ten green and brown four-by-fours crouch in the grass, like safari ants contemplating the bar of chocolate; only they have no such menacing motives.
