Mnarani House at Kizingoni Beach Kabanas. PHOTO | WENDY WATTA
A world heritage site and the oldest continually inhabited town along the Kenyan coast, Lamu has retained not only its authentic moorish architectural fabric but also its social and cultural roots making for a rich, magical and unhurried retreat.
Getting there
There are about four daily scheduled departures with Lamu’s airport being in Manda. Getting there by road is a long and tiring 10 hour trip from Mombasa. But of you love adventure, why not.
The dirt road is bumpy and you will likely be escorted by armed guards at one point for extra security into the mainland.
Getting around
I heard that there were no cars in Lamu but this didn’t actually register in my mind. Not until we got to the airport and had to walk to a nearby jetty and get a boat to the Old Town! You either walk, take a donkey or speedboat.
Locals are known to trudge around barefoot and if you are one to fully immerse yourself in new experiences, give this a shot. A lot of spots even have a small bath by the door to dip your feet in so as to wash off the sand before walking in. The ground, however, gets really hot in the afternoons and this can burn your feet.
I got to explore three different locations in Lamu, each somewhat unique from the next. To find suitable accommodation, compare prices or make reservations, the best resource I found is www.eastafricanretreats.com , and the owner Andrew McGhee even gave me invaluable insider information to help me navigate my way around.
WHERE TO STAY: Mnarani House
MUST DO: Cocktails at Peponi Hotel, take a dhow trip to the Takwa Ruins, pop into the chic boutiques and galleries, get a henna tattoo.
From the Old Town, take a five-minute speed boat to Shela Beach in Shela Village. This spot has a very Mediterranean vibe with chalk-white walls, bouganvillea flowers everywhere and clean streets.
Located right next to the Friday Mosque (its name translates to ‘near the minaret’), it offers unmarred views of the sea from all floors but the panoramic view of the channel from the rooftop terrace is simply breathtaking.
The doors and windows are all original Swahili antiques and the house has numerous tastefully furnished terraces and verandahs from which Chef Lucas can serve up a delicious mix of whatever it is you crave.
From the ground floor with a kitchen, open-plan dining room and swimming pool, two staircases on opposite ends lead to the upper floors where six rooms (five of which are double and ensuite) sit, and the ambiance will lull you into a blissful state of being leaving you content to take leisurely strolls through the beach, responding to greetings from friendly villagers, chatting up the seafront beach boys and popping into little chic shops and boutiques.
Look out for the Shela Hat Contest and Lamu Cultural Festival in the annual events calendar.
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