Plus-size designer helps curvy women shop for great clothes

As a rabid fashion enthusiast who happened to be plus-size, Trish Kinoti used to get frustrated because she could not find beautiful and well-fitting clothes in her size.

So she started making her own clothes out of necessity and desire for quality fabrics and a contemporary fit— designing and finding tailors who would make the clothes that she “wanted to see herself in”.

“The reaction of the tailors about the designs I gave them made me realise that they were more surprised by my confidence. I then began to connect my experiences to the fact that more often than not, the clothing options for bigger women are underwhelming because of assumptions that they should try to conceal or camouflage their bodies as much as possible,” she says.

Her fashion philosophy “Everyday is a runway” was reinforced while studying for her masters degree in South Africa. Exposed to “fashion in any size” attitude, she began to not only dress for special occasions but also experiment with her every day wear.

“My passion for fashion was definitely inspired by my understanding of the link between how a person dresses and how they feel about themselves and desire to be represented. This is further compounded by the fact that I am plus-size, so the assumptions around (my) self-esteem and confidence would be thwarted by the fashion choices I made. Fashion is one of the ways of self-representation in a world that insists on boundaries and boxes,” she says.

She created her own rules along the way, mostly experimenting on herself, her friends, sister and people outside this circle.

“What I took for granted as a personal philosophy, is what others actually needed to be told and reinforced. It turned out that just by being myself in my little corner, I was breathing life and possibilities for those around me. I therefore decided to spread my philosophy to those who had bought into the lie of 'standardised beauty,’ she says.

Trish has become an innovative fashion stylist specialising in plus-size designs. Fig Leaf Tree, a company started in 2010, offers styling and conceptual fashion photography.

It is skewed towards individuality and authentic self-expression. She points out that the biggest fashion mistakes a “curvy” woman can make is not to understand how to dress her specific body type within the plus-size range or blindly copy other looks.

Body shapes

“To be frank, plus-size is normally categorised as “fat”!

This is of course not true or accurate. Within the plus-size range, there are several different body shapes, each with specific flattering cuts and designs best suited to that particular shape. You can’t dress what you don’t know, so it’s important to identify your body type,” she says.

Her personal style is versatile. However, she is a huge fan of colour and contrasting textures, pairing the mundane with the unexpected.

She is also often drawn towards what she terms “unexpected/versatile and simple elegance”.

In her one-on-one consultation, she begins by doing a wardrobe assessment.

She has discovered that most people have the right clothes but do not know how to put them together.

Her approach to styling is not about the “latest” trends but identifying the unique qualities of each individual and using great clothes to bring that out.

“The biggest obstacle is getting someone to change her or his self -perception, especially if you dealing with someone who has been negatively affected by society’s definition of fashion or perhaps they are immersed in an environment that does not foster positive reinforcements of themselves. But I help to identify something in them that they are not in touch with,” she says.

Her reward is seeing a smile or her client’s eyes light up when she sees herself in a different light.

As plus-size fashion gains traction across the world, in Kenya it is also getting better.

Pay attention

Although availability and versatility is sometimes limited, there are shops and franchises that cater for this group. But the second hand market could do with much improvement.

“It’s no longer enough to simply take what is on offer but to demand that the industry and designers pay attention to the needs of the plus- size woman who is just as vibrant, beautiful and worthy of being marketed to and not regarded as an afterthought,” she says.

She would like to bring an authentic self-expression to the plus-size fashion industry and present a versatility in concepts and designs that appreciates the uniqueness of an individual or community at large, expressed with confidence, beauty and an attitude.

Her blog, part of her website figleaftree.com offers ideas on the subject.

“I would like to be known as a stylist who created a niche for women and men of all sizes so that they do not become slaves to trends but get in touch with themselves in a way that previously seemed impossible, through fabulous clothes that complement their bodies..