Discovering Northern Kenya’s hidden treasures

I hadn’t realised why we needed a plane for a ‘road trip’. But the allure of seeing everything from a bird’s eye view up in the air proved that this was a great way to fly to our destination with so much to see as we made our way to the north of the country.

We flew above the scenic Ndakaini dam. And before long, on the left from Nairobi we could see the majestic Mount Kenya nestling peacefully and covered in snow.

Heading out to Samburu, I had envisaged boring countryside with barren land all through. Looks like I had seriously underrated the beauty of our country whichever direction you head to.

As we looked down and marveled at the beauty below, 50 minutes had already elapsed and our pilot was preparing to touch down at the Samburu Oryx airstrip runway. There are three other airstrips in Samburu County including Saruni airstrip.

Maasai and Samburu

Besides the famed flora and fauna, the rich culture of the Maasai and Samburu natives is something that will immediately strike you. Because the youth here still hold their culture dear to their hearts, you will find that most of them have landed jobs as naturalists at the tourist hotels around.

Samburu Intrepids Lodge is one such hotel whose naturalist is a 23-year-old Samburu youth. The lodge is some 20 minutes’ drive from the Oryx airstrip and is owned by Heritage Hotels Ltd.

This is the place for the young and vibrant but older people can have a good time here too.

It is securely located deep inside the Samburu National Reserve surrounded by nature in its untamed form and perched on the banks of the Ewaso Nyiro River.

Nominated as Kenya’s leading safari camp in 2014 by the World Tourism Association, this lodge boasts of 27 luxurious modern tents personalised with a private view of the Ewaso Nyiro River.

Our next stop the following day was Mountain Lodge Serena in Nyeri.

The lodge is nestled on the slopes of Mt Kenya around the Naro Moru area.

The lodge has 41 rooms with private balconies overlooking the majestic mountain.

The establishment can be accessed by road and by air. By road from Nairobi, you go through Nyeri to Naromoru or from Nyahururu.

The first morning here is usually ushered in with a two-hour guided nature walk in the Mt Kenya forest for an English bush breakfast. Hot Kenyan tea and brandy is usually in the offing to keep people warm throughout the walk.

Bush breakfast

Benson Maina, the naturalist at the park will take you through the history of the forest and the types of animals and birds that can be found here. While enroute, you may bump into an elephant, warthogs and colobus monkeys among many other animals. The latter are vegetarian so they are likely to bother you.

Upon arrival at the bush breakfast destination, alcoholic and non-alcoholic champagne is offered with the chirping sounds of the birds in the cool fresh forest breeze.
This service comes at an extra cost of Sh1,500 per person.

The lodge’s general manager, Kathurima Mburugu, would be awaiting at the bush breakfast site. He assures the team that they are yet to experience the sundowner as they sit overlooking the hotel’s water hole as different animals come to quench their thirst. It is routine for the animals found here to come to the watering hole every morning and evening.

Activities

Extra activities you can indulge with your team include; trout fishing at Sh2,500 per person where the catch you make is prepared for you on site with other accompaniments for lunch.

Mountain Lodge is also a honeymooner’s paradise as its magical touch does not just end with the sundowner drink. A roof top barbeque dinner is served as you watch the playful wild animals down below. This comes at an extra cost of $20 (Sh2000/-) per head.

Other activities include; tree planting, hiking up the Mt Kenya, Moorland hike or an exhilarating game drive in the privately-owned Ol Pejeta Conservancy one hour from the lodge.

While here, the team can visit the renowned chimpanzee sanctuary at a cost of Sh9,000 person inclusive of packed lunch, park fees and a four-wheel drive land cruiser.

Accommodation during high season (January and March ) is Sh8,500 a day per person sharing a double bed while during low season (April to June) it is Sh15,000 a day per person sharing and Sh7,500 for a single bed.

Peak season (July to September) costs Sh9,800 per person sharing and Sh8,200 per person sharing and during shoulder season of October to December. Children under five years get complimentary services while teens between 13 and 17 pay 75 per cent of the adult rate.

You can also indulge in a pampering and personalised spa moment. A 50 per cent discount is offered for group bookings of three persons or more. Honeymoon suites and wedding advisory services are also offered.

To fly from Nairobi to Samburu, you will pay $210 (Sh21,00) per passenger. Safarilink offers daily flights to Samburu region. One can also opt for a six-hours or so self-drive or go for public transport option. The latter costs Sh800 via the Nairobi – Isiolo route that is now fully tarmacked.