Heritage

Bold enough to invest in middle of a pandemic

Siyad

Siyad Abdullahi, a Kenyan-American entrepreneur who opened Taste of Manhattan, a Nairobi-based restaurant. PHOTO | POOL

If you have ever wondered what it is like to dine in downtown Manhattan, New York, the Taste of Manhattan in Nairobi’s Koinange Street offers a semblance of this stirring experience.

From wall-size photographs and other artworks that feature the colour and whir of New York and its iconic landmarks —including the famous Broadway Street and Times Square —the commercial and cultural capital of the world is brought to life 11,800 kilometres in this restaurant.

It has a bold fusion of Kenyan-American cuisine, ambiance, and service. The dishes served here that are the archetype of culinary excellence of the two countries; burgers, sandwiches, sauces, shakes, salads, and chicken nuggets. Fish, goat, and beef, prepared the Kenyan way, are presented in as much American as Kenya’s delicate style.

This latest entrant into Nairobi’s ever-bulging food space is the brainchild of Siyad Abdullahi, a Kenyan-American entrepreneur who currently lives in Minnesota.

The Kenyan-Somali, who has spent half his life in the US, has a fearless outlook on life. His background maybe is in healthcare, but Siyad takes a fancy in trying his hand at any promising venture. He has business interests across Africa and America.

When I met him during his annual visit to Kenya, I was curious to know three things. Why a restaurant in an already crowded scene? Why in the middle of a pandemic? And why Manhattan?

“Having been in the diaspora for many years, I’ve always wanted to have a footprint in the country,” he said.

“Even though my core competency is healthcare logistics, food was a no-brainer because, being a cross-cultural medium, it has the power to bring people together.”

“The idea was to do something in Nairobi that encompasses American culture but also with a Kenyan orientation.”

On the choice of Manhattan as the name, Siyad, 39, says: “There’s nothing more quintessentially American than Manhattan. When people think about America, the Statue of Liberty, and Times Square captivate the mind. This ambience teleports diners to the heart of America.”

But would the establishment, with its design and offerings, fit in Manhattan? “Perfectly,” he exclaims with effusive cheer. “Kenyans are very hospitable people, which explains why there are so many expatriates in Nairobi. New York too accommodates everyone from across the world, including, for instance, the remotest part in Mongolia.”

When I ask him about the interconnectedness of dishes from the two countries, he replies: “Today, biryani, for instance, is as much American as a burger because of this diversity.”

At cross-sections of the market, such as high-end dining, remarkable similarities exist.

“The ambience, the service and food offerings in the most expensive places in Nairobi are similar to that of cities in the US.”

It is at the bottom and middle of the social spectrum where significant differences are, majorly because of affordability.

“Most Kenyans can’t afford a $15 (Sh1,600) meal, which is probably the least you can pay in most American eateries.” A multicultural, Siyad has ethnic-Somali, Kenyan and American inclinations. How these backgrounds influence his food choices when he walks into an eatery. He tells me food for him is a tripartite affair.

“What I eat for comfort isn’t what I eat when I’m rushing, which would be something like a chocolate croissant. If I’m easy, then I’d have chicken, steak or salmon and a lot of fruit salad. At high-end places, I like to eat seafood.”

Thoroughly fascinated by people and their dishes as he is, did he have any food shocks when he moved to the US?

“Africans aren’t very big on fast food. Here we sit and eat. The idea of drive-throughs at Starbucks or McDonald’s and eating in the car was unusual for me.”

This dining behaviour, he explains, is partly because of time constraints, but also because it is the American way of life.

“It doesn’t matter where you are on the socioeconomic ladder. You could be a vice president in a company or a college student—everyone grabs their food or drink and hit the road.”

Siyad opened the restaurant four months ago deep in the middle of a pandemic. It was a high-wire act, for obvious reasons. At the time, hotels and eateries were folding in quick succession, their boat rocked by debts, high operational costs amid low business volumes.

Those that have defied odds to keep their doors open are one lockdown away from closure. Essentially, Siyad was plunging into hostile waters. He admits that it was a risky move that could potentially backfire.

“Covid-19 was disruptive globally. It has been a hard year for everyone. We had hoped to open early in the year before Kenya went into lockdown in March,” he says.

“There’s no perfect time in business. But how you execute your strategy is very important, and so far, we’ve done a fairly good job,” he says.

Being a global phenomenon, the pandemic forced businesses to pivot, which Siyad sees as a test of resilience and a vital lesson for new investments.

The eatery is hoping to build its brand around youth and young middle-class and upper-middle-class professionals, he says. Even more remarkable, Taste of Manhattan does not consider Java and CJs—popular with Kenya’s middle-class —as competition, based on its pricing and dishes.

“As we expand and attain economies of scale, we hope to bring our costs down to cater to the majority of diners,” he says.

Already, Siyad is eyeing a national presence. But he has loftier ambitions: to go regional. “We’ll soon open a branch in Kigali, Kampala and Addis Ababa to popularise Kenyan-themed dishes with a touch of American style,” he says.

Kenyans, traditionally, tend to move away from the CBD in the evening. Elsewhere in major world cities though, people move back to town at dusk to hang out at clubs and eateries. This is a tradition that Siyad hopes to change.

“Like Americans, we (Kenyans) are very entrepreneurial. Why not bring people to town to talk about business and other subjects even as the working class leaves for home?” This, he believes, can be done through exciting food.

Thankfully, conversations in Africa tend to involve food, a rich vein that Siyad hopes to tap into as he looks to build his brand.

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