Most chefs would no more comment on another’s culinary than they would score each other’s performance in bed but Chef Andreas Mensch, the head honcho and chef de cuisine at Villarosa Kempinski is not most chefs.
Inspired by his grandfather who owned a pastry shop, he began his culinary career as an apprentice chef at the four-star Hotel Germania in Bregenz, Austria.
He later moved to the double-Michelin-starred restaurant Korso bei der Opera in Vienna as a demi chef cuisine.
He’s had stints at the Rainbow Hotel (Norway), and the five-star Park Hotel Ridzene in Riga where he clinched his first executive chef role.
The US and the Middle East have also had a taste of him, before his return to Europe to open the Pullman flagship in Georgia as an executive chef at Pullman Tbilisi Axis Towers.
He now joins Kempinski Hotels in Kenya having already evolved from prodigy to phenomenon to brand to institution.
It is here, on the shoulder of the Villa Rosa’s terrace that we have a tête-à-tête where to the blind ear, he speaks fastidiously, fearfully, with self-awareness bordering on self-censorship; editing every syllable, slicing off personal colour and spontaneous wit, discarding opinion, deflecting navel-gazing, humanness.
He is an eel in water, puckish but smooth. He is impossible, but charming. But like a great tour guide, occasionally he will let slip, beckoning you into his inner sanctum, whispering nuggets with a warm voice that seems to hint this is just between us.
At 46 years old, he may have been in the kitchen all his life, but he is still hungry to prove himself in Kenya.
What’s it like being you?
I guess very interesting because I have been to a lot of countries. My life changes drastically every three to four years when I move.
I never get bored because I am always on the move, to different countries, probably the worst-case scenario is that I may only move to a different hotel in the same country. I bore easily.
Is there a moment in your life you realised you are lucky to do this?
All the time. I am all over the world. Eating is probably one of the most satisfying things in the world.
What has been your favourite destination so after?
Every country has its pluses and minuses. I don’t see the country as a tourist would but as someone living there. These are the memories I love.
Any special childhood memory you would like to share?
Italy. We had family vacations twice a year, going to the Adriatic Coast and eating the Mediterranean food there.
Family?
Two children, one wife.
What’s your weekend lifestyle like?
Normally I spend the weekend with family but they are not here yet (waiting for the school calendar to complete).
Now, I usually go to restaurants to chill. If you are in this industry, there is not much space for hobbies.
If you were not a chef, what would you have been?
Most of my family is in construction. My father is an architect.
What food best describes your life?
Food depends on your mood. You have days you are super energetic, and days you are super chill. But I love Mediterranean cuisine.
What is an absurd thing you love?
Maybe criticising. When I go to other restaurants and I know how that food should be, I may go out of my way to make my feelings known.
What is the dumbest thing you have spent money on?
All the knives in my kitchen haha!
What have you become good at saying no to?
Pizza after 11 pm. See, chefs hardly have lunch, we spend all day in the kitchen and when you go home, the hunger hits you and so you pop the pizza at 11. I hope it’s not showing on my gut!
What’s your superpower?
Making good food. Satisfying people with food is a superpower, no?
Is there a time you made something good for people and they were like naah?
Yes. We had an 8-course dinner at our presidential suite. I sat with the husband who wanted to surprise his wife. In the evening I cooked for them and I figured out they didn’t like some of the food. It happens.
What’s a special treat that you do just for yourself?
Going to the spa to get a massage. I can spend half a day there getting a manicure, and pedicure then go to the pool with a glass of champagne. Bliss.
What is the first thing you do in a new place?
Establish contacts with different chefs. Get connected in the market.
Is there something as a family you do together?
Vacations. And spending time together, especially with my wife since the children are already older. The first year we explore our host country, this year will be Kenya. Then back to Europe to visit our families next year.
When you think of the weekend what food comes to mind?
Food = mood. So, it depends. Not too much cooking. Going out somewhere.
Have you tried any Kenyan meals?
I tried our staff food which was pretty amazing but I am informed I am yet to explore more haha!
What are you bringing to Kenya’s culinary scene?
My own style. I like a lot of raw food because of Kenya’s eternal spring. I’ll have to adapt my style because I understand this is not big in Kenya.
Did you have a mentor?
My first mentor was my grandfather then the chef from my apprenticeship. I have also had other mentors at a two-star restaurant in Vienna.
Living there was not cheap, my apartment was way more expensive than I could afford and my father put up some money to pay for my living costs.
What do you think your mentors learned from you?
That there are still good young interested people out there.
What are you learning about yourself now?
Since life is a learning curve, I am still learning that nobody is perfect. Age has taught me how to become more patient.
When you are young, you are more aggressive, but with time you became relaxed, take a breather, assess and think, and solve things differently.
Are you smart or lucky?
I think it is a combination of both. You need to be smart to achieve your goals but a little luck doesn’t hurt either.
If it were all to end today, what are the three things you hold true?
That even if I advise him against it, my younger son still wants to become a chef.
What is the soundtrack of your life right now?
When I was at the Maasai Mara it was "Africa" by Toto.
What's your weekend hack?
Sleep in, have some breakfast and think about where you are going for dinner.
