Dunford has been many things for the Tamarind Group; assistant manager, General Manager, Managing Director and currently, the chairman. He was also a bouncer at the Carnivore at some point.
“It was hands-on at the beginning, my wife was cashier and I doubled as a bouncer. Threw out many drunks, but one day, I almost got clubbed by some drunks and decided that perhaps I needed to hire a real bouncer,” he chuckles.
Although the group saw the closure of their Egypt Franchise ahead of the Spring Arab Spring revolts, Martin says 2011 was their best year ever.
Carnivore is 31 years old today and apart from having a franchise down in South Africa, they are looking at expanding into Dubai by the end of this year.
We meet in his office and I marvel at, not just how tall he is (6’5’’) but how uncannily gigantic his hands are. On his office walls are numerous pictures of his sons - The Dunford brothers – swimming and surfing.
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You have been successful selling meat. It’s that simple, isn’t it?
No, it isn’t. The Carnivore experience is a theatrical one. We offer what you can’t do at home: you walk in and you are met by a 300kgs nyama.
We are talking about guys with sharp knives, smoke, roaring fire. It’s a true feast and it’s in your face. You don’t get that anywhere else.
You have hosted many VIPs at Carnivore, who is the most stubborn VIP to ever set foot at your restaurant?
(Chuckles then thinks) Mobutu Sese Seko, the late President of Zaire.
He once showed up with about 12 Israeli bodyguards and 60 personal bodyguards. The Israeli bodyguards shoved me into a wall and frisked me when I wanted to get into the restaurant only for them to realise later that I was one of the owners.
What meat did he eat that night?
(Chuckles) No, he didn’t order for crocodile meat. He wanted monkey meat but we had to disappoint him.
What is the weirdest thing you have ever eaten?
Live scorpions, in a market in Beijing.
There, they stick these wiggling scorpions on a stick and you stick them in boiling oil, fry them for a few minutes then eat them up.
Your boys are accomplished athletes. How does a man bring up champions?
It’s a process that involves encouraging, supporting and giving them the belief that they can achieve whatever they set their minds on at any level whatsoever.
Is there any fit bone in your body?
I have played competitive squash for 30 years.
I have also surfed for the longest time in my life, still do. I’m a great swimmer too, but not like my sons obviously. You see that picture there (points at a picture of him surfing under a huge wave) that was a 20 foot wave in Indonesia, where I went surfing recently. The best waves are, however, in the Kenyan coast. Surfing is big in my life.
What’s your state of mind when you are dwarfed under a huge wave like that?
Surfing is freedom. It’s about your relationship with nature. It empties your mind and keeps you incredibly fit.
How many surf boards do you own?
About 10. There are different surf boards for different wave sizes.
What do you drink?
Water! (Laughs at the pun). I’m very aquatic.
I don’t go to bars and pubs and the lot much. But if I have to go, I will have a tequila, whisky or red wine.
I don’t drink alcohol in long stretches of time because I like to be in control, I’m a control freak. Plus I hate waking up feeling sick.
What car does a 6’5’’ chap drive that won’t give him muscle cramps? I drive a Toyota Land Cruiser, VX. It’s spacious plus matatus don’t harass me on the roads.
What do you spend most on?
Travelling. We do a lot of that as a family. My sons and I are always going somewhere where we can surf. I also spend some time eating out.
Do you read or are you just a surfer in your spare time?
I read magazines mostly; Newsweek, The Economist, I read all the daily newspapers when I walk into my office. Yes, including The Business Daily (smiles). I read a quite a bit of autobiographies as well. Right now, I’m reading Steve Jobs book that was released after his death.
Who would you say is Carnivore’s biggest competitor?
I’m not sure we have one (thinks). You know what? everybody is our competitor (laughs). Safari Park could be a contender in terms of nyama, but you see, to them the nyama choma ranch a facility of the hotel; while ours is a restaurant.
What cuisine do you love most?
Japanese food. I love seafood generally. I love Furusato Restaurant. We also love dining at Seven Seafood and Grill and Talisman Restaurant.
What do you listen to?
Rock, reggae, West African music. I get all my music from my sons, I listen to whatever they are listening to, most of which I don’t understand.
Do you sometimes wish you had a daughter?
I don’t wish for things I haven’t got. (Grins)
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