French lingerie brand Etam enters Kenya

Etam, a French lingerie brand has launched in Nairobi. Etam at Village Market joins a growing number of international retailers that are seeking a share of Kenya’s growing underwear, swimwear, nightwear and footwear market.

Ashley Myers, the group chief executive officer, of Liberty Eagle African Holdings, told the BDLife that Etam operates using a franchise model.

“We acquired the franchise after researching the market for good quality lingerie for women,” he said.

Liberty Eagle is an advisory group that works with the world’s biggest fashion, beauty, and food brands. The company opened 10 years ago with four international brands. It has a main office in Kenya with a presence in Uganda.

“When we set up in Kenya, we entered with four franchises; Subway, Pizza Hut, Mango and the fourth brand was Yves Rocher, a French brand,” Mr Myers says.

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“After food brands, we brought in the fashion brands, followed by beauty brands, the next focus was innerwear, hence Etam. It was a natural progression from eating to dressing to beautifying oneself into the inner clothing.”

He says the entry of Etam into the Kenyan market was easier than for their food brand Pizza Hut. One would assume that it is easier to set up a food business than a female-focused business.

“With Pizza Hut, we had a lot of extensive research which included an analysis for income levels in Nairobi which enables us to indeed find the right locations for this kind of food,” says Mr Myers.

“With Etam, it was easier, as there was almost no competition. There was no store that had comfortable, well-fitting and beautiful innerwear that women loved. Also, there was no store that offered measurement as part of the service.”

The French lingerie brand says it is targeting “anyone who can afford the innerwear and this includes the middle class and foreigners.”

Most of their customers are women, and once in a while, a few men pop into the store with their loved ones. Pricing starts from Sh2,700 and rises depending on the item being purchased.

“We had a good spending of Sh150,000 by one lady,” says Mr Myers.

Etam prides itself on two unique selling points; measurement. Before the customer makes a purchase, they are fitted to ensure that they know their right size and buy a fitting undergarment.

“Globally, it is known that women rarely purchase fitting undergarments. We take your measurements and enable women to have knowledge of their sizes, it is very empowering,” he says.

They also stock mastectomy bras, which are uncommon in the Kenyan market forcing women to shop abroad or in thrift markets.

“We have a post-mastectomy lingerie line and swimwear. This line consists of bras designed around a base of four shapes, the pieces have integrated pockets to accommodate any prosthesis,” he says.

Many businesses have entered, tried to conquer, failed and exited Kenya. Some fail due to high pricing while others are unable to overcome logistics challenges, and some are due to both issues.

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Mr Myers says the level of documentation required in Kenya is excessive compared to other parts of the world.

“In addition, the process of importation is challenging,” he says, adding “There is a fine line between the government protections versus the development of trade which enables job creation, the contribution of taxes, among other things.”

There is also the challenge of identifying the right communication channels to create and sustain awareness.

Liberty Eagle has expansion plans for Etam. The second store will be in Mombasa, “Nairobi is tougher as there are limited stores available, and there is very little store space. Also, franchise rights are territorial, therefore, we can only focus on where our franchise rights are mandated,” he says.

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